Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
